Given its blistering growth and frenetic energy, Shanghai today feels like New York City circa 1999. Anything is possible.
As alluded to on my previous posting, I made several pilgrimages to Jean-Georges on my recent trip to Shanghai. Was it the view of Pudong morphing across the water? Was it the magnificent menu, French-based, with Asian influences? Was it the wine list? I am not sure that even I could tell you.
On our first meal at Jean-Georges, the maestro himself was in the kitchen. We had a fabulous lunch (the foie gras "brulee" is not to be missed!) accented by an always-great Jaboulet "Parallele 45". The excellent and approachable sommelier, Yvonne, also let us sample some local wine. We tried a Merlot and a Chardonnay, both by Grace Vineyard, about which I had read in the Wine Spectator. Um, let me just be diplomatic by saying that I applaud the effort, but in my humble opinion, Chinese wines still have a bit of a long march to go.
We popped into Jean-Georges for a drink the next afternoon (we were in the building lunching at the Whampoa Club--also recommended). "Om", the bar manager, greeted us with a weary (and wary?) look in her eyes.
"What's wrong?"
"It was a late one," she slumped.
"Really? Why?"
"It was our 3rd Anniversary."
"Sounds like fun."
"It was," she began, "100 bottles of Champagne fun!"
100 bottles! We cursed the fact that we weren't invited. Ah, well, maybe for the 4th Anniversary, Om?
Shanghai is champagne-crazy. In addition to the Jean-Georges blow-out, we witnessed a champagne party at Glamour Bar across the street the next night, hosted by one of the Champagne houses (my bad for not recalling which!).
We only caught the tail-end, but I would wager that the scale of consumption eclipsed even that of the Jean Georges fete. They are burning through the bubbly on the Bund!
If I owned a champagne house (maybe next lifetime?) I would be rubbing my hands in glee at the wild, wild East. Laissez les bons temps rouler!